LR13 ’40s TYPE I DENIM JACKET

Extraordinary pains were taken to replicate all the signature attributes of the 1940’s Type I denim jacket, which required overcoming many challenges posed by the rarity of both the materials and period-specific sewing techniques. There is slight asymmetry in the breast pocket, achieved through freehand sewing without guides, which is designed to take on an increasingly more pleasing distortion with every wear and wash. As with our LR11 jacket, the pocket flaps are lined in 6 oz dungaree in natural indigo, rather than doubling in the same fabric, allowing the pocket flap to be soft and pliable. The thread used throughout assembly is 100% cotton as per the period. But due to being more fragile than polyester thread, the thickness had to be considered carefully for different areas of the jacket, addressing the varying amount of expected wear and tear. As for the colour of the thread, we have developed a brand exclusive colourway that mimics that found on true vintage pieces, as it would have faded through sunlight exposure.

The final detail, though perhaps the most subtle, was the most challenging to achieve. The buttons are created through a new specially developed exclusive button mould that deliberately recreates the defects of the period, with subtly deformed lettering. The material, nickel silver, is the same as used on the 500 yen coin. As a final but essential touch, the buttons are treated via a proprietary technique to recreate discolouration, roughened texture, and rusting, making them almost indistinguishable from real vintage buttons.